The week after Thanksgiving, which Lisa and I spent in Idaho visiting our families, I went to Boston for the Materials Research Society’s Fall Meeting. I was a co-organizer of a symposium on novel nuclear materials, which I think turned out very successfully.
In any case, I’m a history buff, particularly on early American history (Revolutionary War and Civil War periods, in particular). I was in Boston for the MRS meeting 3 years ago or so. That time, it was horribly cold, so cold I didn’t really want to be outside. However, I did want to visit some of the sites of this historic city, so I did wander from the convention center towards the heart of the city, following the so-called Freedom Trail. I saw a couple of graveyards, and some other sites, but nothing too much. And then I reached that god-aweful City Hall building. I looked at hideous building, shivering in the cold, and thought “What the hell am I doing out here? There isn’t anything to see!” And so, I wandered back to the hotel.
Well, this time, it wasn’t so cold. And, when I got to the City Hall, and looked at it with a mixture of both disgust and awe — awe that such an ugly building could be built — I decided to see what was on the other side. And THAT is where historic Boston is. I wandered a bit around the true heart of the city and saw some pretty cool sites. There was the oldest Mall in America, which probably, considering our consumer culture, should be one of the most important sites in the country! I saw a pretty impressive cemetery, overlooking the harbor. And, I visited Paul Revere’s house. Which was very cool. The house itself isn’t overly impressive, but just the sense of history associated with the house, and the description of how the family lived (a couple of tid bits: many early Americans didn’t celebrate Christmas, as they felt that was against the spirit of Christianity to ritualize such holidays (though it isn’t clear if Revere’s family did or did not celebrate Christmas); the master bedroom doubled as a parlor for entertaining and many rooms had dual uses like this; and Revere had a total of 9 kids and while they didn’t all live in the house at the same time, the ones who did shared one room).
I also visited the Green Dragon tavern, which is the place that Revere and other revolutionaries met to get a pint and talk. I don’t know if they maybe planned some of the revolutionary activities there or not, but many of them often gathered there. I asked if they had a souvenir glass, but, alas, they did not. Seems like a pretty cool marketing opportunity to me: “The Green Dragon, where freedom was discussed over Boston’s best beer.” Ok, maybe they could do better than that, but something.
Anyways, it was a much better visit than the first time. I appreciated much better the city and what it means to American history. There is still a lot to see, but seeing as how the MRS is always in Boston, I’m sure I will be there more than a few more times. Maybe it will be warm enough for one of those visits to really spend a good day getting to know the city.
The ferry was very nice (on the way out, anyways). It wasn’t too crowded and, while it was a slow mode of transport, it was nice to be able to walk around, get some food and drink (there was a bar on board) and play ping pong. I pretty much sucked at ping pong, but the last game I played, I eeked out a victory (more due to my opponent choking than any real skill on my part). The photo is the sunset from the boat over the water.
Speaking of enjoying ourselves, the food overall was very good. Not only the cafeteria, but also the local restaurants. One night, we went to a Basque Bistro. While no one there was Basque (except me, perhaps), the food was very good. I had squid in its own ink, another guy had grilled sardines, and everyone was happy. Another night, we went out to the B&B that Kurt was staying at and had a very nice meal. I had a special local menu in which every course was paired with a local cider (the region, Normandy, is known for its ciders). It started off with duck meatballs, went on to pork filets, had an intermediate course of local cheeses, and ended with dessert (which I can’t remember at this moment).

The most notable thing about Caen is the church steeples that fill the city line. And they are all nearly identical, again, a consequence of the bombing: all of the churches were rebuilt after the war. William the Conquerer, who conquered much of Britain from Normandy, is buried in one of the churches, the Men’s Abbey. His wife is buried on the other side of town in the Women’s Abbey. Interesting how the sexes were separated like that.
Caen is very close to the D-Day beaches and, after the conference finished, we spent an afternoon exploring the American Cemetary. It would have been nice to have more time to see the others, but even that much was worth it. Around 9000 Americans died during the Normandy invasion, and you get a sense of that cost in human life by visiting the cemetary. It is amazing to think that almost 3 times as many Americans died during that invasion than have died in Iraq. Maybe that says something about war becoming just a little bit humane (though, that doesn’t consider the cost in Iraqi life). There is a little museum there too, trying to give a sense of how difficult the task of taking those beaches was. Not that I’m in any kind of shape, but just hiking around the hills surrounding the beach winded me slightly. I can’t imagine trying to take the beach and the hills, carrying a bunch of equipment and being shot at.
to stop screaming. But, we survived and made it back to London, where there was a metro strike, so we had to deal with that. The next day, we had some meetings with collaborators at Imperial College. That night, we were all exhausted from the travel, so we just grabbed some dinner at a local pub and called it a night. The next day, we flew home.
This year, Lisa and I decided to drive instead of fly. We put the Prius to the test on a very long road trip — nearly 2000 miles each way. On the way there, we passed through the Vegas area, driving across the Hoover Dam. I’d never been there before and it was a pretty impressive site. Unfortunately, it was too hot for us to linger much, so we didn’t visit the visitor’s center or anything, but just stopped and looked around. It is an amazing engineering marvel. The water line was significantly lower than normal, as we could see the normal water line etched in the rocks. We could also see that they were building a new bridge to bypass the entire dam. We figured it was so people couldn’t just drive up to the dam as the dam is likely considered a terrorist target. But, the bridge they are working on looks to be pretty damn amazing itself. It is high above the dam, seemingly just coming out the side of the mountain. It will be cool to see the dam from the bridge once it is finished.
We stopped at the Paris Hotel that night. We got in a bit later than we wanted (partially because it took us forever to crawl down the strip to our hotel), so we didn’t do too much site seeing. We did look around the hotel itself. It was made up to look like a small French village, with the slot machines, of course. There were some things you might expect from anything French that was missing. There wasn’t a simple creperie. The only thing available served humongous Americanized crepes rather than the simple lemon ones you would get in Paris. And there weren’t any clothing shops, something you see in Paris a lot. These were all things Lisa noticed while we wandered around. But, overall, it was alright. We had a nice view of the Eiffel Tower outside our bedroom window.


I grew up in Homedale, Idaho, so I have some familiarity with Boise. Not as much as one might think since it was far enough away that we didn’t get there very often. I’ve gotten to know Boise better in recent years as Lisa’s parents live there.