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buber.net > Basque > Features > GuestColumns > The Orange Tide
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The Orange Tide
by Martin Hardie
Martin Hardie (Maputo/Durango) is a bit of a nomad. He has managed bands, worked in Aboriginal Art centres, been a solicitor, a barrister, an advisor to various members of the former East Timorese resistance, and a university lecturer. He currently spends his time as a moderator of the nettime list, undertaking his post-graduate research work and fulfilling his duties as a correspondent for www.cyclingnews.com. His ambition is to become the archetype of life within communism at the break of dawn a cyclist, during the day a cook, cyber-conspiracist and correspondent, in the afternoons a student and philosopher and, at nights, simply pleasant company. See his homepage at http://auskadi.tk/.
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At the Tour, as in any sporting event, we are familiar with the
phenomena of fans, those supporters of a team, a rider, of their
countrymen, who are drawn out to line the roads to barrack the route
of their heroes. But during these last three years we have witnessed
something that to some of us just defies all explanation in its size,
its passion, and its commitment - a human spectacle that really
doesn’t seem to have any precedents or comparison.
Of course, the phenomena of which
I speak is La Marea Naranja, the Orange Tide, the legions of
Basque fans who inundate and claim the Pyrenees as their own for at
least one weekend in July. Sitting back at home listening to Phil and
Paul, I am sure that many wonder why do these crazy Basqueys appear so
much more passionate and committed than your average TdF punter. Sure,
we see supporters from other places, flying their flags or their team
colours, the Flemish Lions, the Danish Cross, the boxing kangaroo. Who
can forget that summer in the nineties when the King was dethroned and
the route seemed to be populated by blond-headed, red- and
white-painted Danes singing endlessly and wildly out of tune
“Bjaaaarne Riis, Bjaaaarne Riis, Bjaaaarne
Riis…..”. But you have to admit those crazy Danes were
mild mannered and few in number in comparison to the Orange Tide.
The appearance of the Orange Tide coincided, of course, with
the participation of Euskaltel-Euskadi in the Tour de France. But the
question remains: how did such a small team, then just bubbling out of
the Second Division, manage to enthuse such a mass of emotion and
support, to cause the Pyrenees to come alive with the sound of orange
in such a way? When you see these scenes it is like the whole
population of the Basque Country has turned orange and moved on mass
to the TdF.
In their first appearance at the Tour in 2001, even the
Euskaltel riders themselves were surprised at how passionate and how
numerous their fans were. David Etxaberria told me afterwards that to
rise through the Orange Tide was “a great sensation; it gives
you goose bumps” But the truth was that “we were not
expecting it at all until we passed them”. Etxebarria described
the Orange Tide as a “grand fiesta of Basque cycling,” and
it is here that the explanation of the phenomena lies: that cycling
allows the Basque people one way of expressing who they are, their
identity and their difference. Being together, in a group and
enjoying life and a grand fiesta, is a large part of being Basque.
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With an area no bigger than Tasmania, the Basque Country can
boast over 70 riders in the European pro peloton this year. Many of
them have passed through the ranks of what is now
Euskaltel-Euskadi. Cycling is an expression of their difference,
their local habits, their ways of doing things and their
love of the grand outing. But when many people think about things
Basque, their immediate thoughts are not positive; car bombs and ETA
come to mind before the many gems of Basque Culture such as cycling,
pelota and pintxos.
David Etxebarria sees a link between the place of sport in
Basque culture and the legacy of the Franco years. “Sport is a
part of Basque culture, and because of the suffering and sacrifice it
has more influence, is more deeply rooted than in other cultures. It
is because of the repression through which we have lived.” As a
people who felt strongly about their identity, the Basques suffered
heavily during the civil and war and the Franco years. Durango,
Euskaltel’s “home town,” and Gernika where the first
civilian populations to be bombed from the air. And, during the Franco
years, the Basque language, an indigenous European language that
predates the Romanisation of Europe, was banned.
Sport has been, and continues to be, one of the ways that the
Basque people can express their identity without being
“political.” In fact it appears that cycling has played an
important role in helping the Basques remain Basque during the last
seventy odd years of attempts by Madrid to make them more Spanish. The
great rivalries of Spanish cycling of old -- Bahamontes and
Loroño, Bahamontes and Ocaña -- all in one way or
another were ciphers for the Basque’s feeling of Basqueness. A
feeling that Etxebarria says means “to be proud of one's
country, one's people and one's culture …” he continues
“you don’t have to be born here to be Basque, but what is
important is that you feel Basque”.
To feel Basque is to first and foremost live the gregarious,
social way of loving life that they have. It is for many, like David
Etxaberria, not about thinking of the Basque Country “as a
country within another country” but as “a country within
the world..." as a place in its own right whatever the geopolitical
reality. The "...the team thinks this way and it is for this reason we
are in the team”. But the geopolitical reality is that the
Basque Country is within Spain and for most Basques this legal fact
doesn’t decide anything -- they are and they feel Basque.
Nevertheless, when Basque riders race in events such as the World
Champs or the Olympics they race as Spaniards. Two current world
champions, Igor Astarloa and Joanne Somarriba, are both Basque. Only
in surfing has this little corner of Europe managed to gain
recognition for their national federation.
Over the years a number of great
Basque cyclists have been the objects of national passion. They have
in one way or another assumed or had hoisted upon them the symbolism
of a national identity. From the days of Jesus Loroño, to the
first generation of post Franco riders such as Julian Gorospe and
Marino Lejarreta, cycling has carried with it a meaning of being more
than just sport. During the years of the transition to democracy,
Marino Lejaretta was probably the first cyclist to be explicit about
his Basque identity. Of course this was not possible before the
dictators death. Lejaretta had an impressive string of
victories: the Classica San Sebastian in 1981, 1982 and again in 1987,
and the Vuelta in 1982. Late in his career he was third in the
’91 Classica San Sebastian behind none other than Miguel
Indurain. It was then Indurain who became the successor to the
symbolism embodied by Lejaretta.
Until the end of Indurain’s reign, this humble Navarran
farm boy can probably be said to have prompted the most overt
expressions of Basque imagery and symbolism ever seen outside of
politics or to have been focused upon one sportsman. Being Navarran, a
part of the traditional Basque lands, made it possible for him to be
adopted by the Basque community. Wherever Indurain rode, the
distinctive Basque flag, the Ikurriña, dominated the
routes.
With the passing of Indurain and with his win in the World
Champs of 1995, Basque hopes were passed on to Abraham Olano. Of
course in recent years we have seen a literal explosion of Basque pros
in the upper ranks of the peloton, most notably Joseba Beloki, Igor
Gonzalez de Galdeano and World Champ Igor Astarloa. But it was during
this time of the mid nineties that Basque cycling took a new turn and,
with it, the feeling of being Basque gradually shifted focus from
being personified in one great hope -- a cycling cult of the
personality -- to being embodied in a team that would be proudly and
outspokenly Basque.
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The team Euskadi (Basque Country) entered the professional ranks in
1994 and, unlike every other professional team, they displayed no
sponsorship logos, only the red, green and white colours of the
Ikurriña. While picking up a number of victories each year, it
was with the entry of the Basque telephone company, Euskaltel, that
the team’s fortunes really took off and they hit the
international stage with their debut appearance in the TdF. With this
debut, the colours of the Ikurriña were still present in the
team’s kit, but it was the bright orange of the sponsor that
took centre stage. And it is this orange that has in a way become the
fourth national colour. In these times of ongoing tension between
Madrid and the Basque country orange has become a metaphor for all
things that are embodied in the spirit of being Basque.
When Roberto Laiseka charged up Luz Ardiden to
victory ahead of Armstrong and Ullrich in the 2001 Tour, he was
carrying more than his own weight. As he rode through that incredible
sea of orange clad fans and waving Ikurriñas, he carried with
him, and rode through, a grand fiesta and all that which
symbolises the incredible lightness of being Basque. Laiseka still
rides with the chance of winning a stage or two, but the focus of the
team has passed to the younger generation of Iban Mayo and Haimar
Zubeldia, and Euskaltel have now set their sights a fair bit higher
than picking up a few more stage wins.
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For one I wouldn’t be surprised if the performances of Mayo and
Zubeldia in last year’s edition draw out an even greater
presence of orange in this year's Tour. But as you sit back and watch
the Tour, and you witness that tide of orange, and that sea of red,
green and white flags along with a whole host of other more overtly
political banners, remember that the orange signifies much more than
just another pro cycling team: to the multitude that comprises the
Orange Tide this is much, much more than a bike race, this is an
expression of an identity. Haimar Zubeldia, who ran 5th in
last years Tour, and this year is aiming for a place on the podium,
put it clearly when he said that, Euskaltel Euskadi is an
“emanation of our people” and for three weeks in July that
people wear orange.
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