The txapela, or beret, is a defining feature of the traditional Basque costume. Wherever and whenever Basques gather, there are sure to be a few txapelak. The walls of my uncle’s home are lined with txapelak from all of the mus tournaments he’s been part of and, when my Tio Joe turned 100, they celebrated with a custom txapela embroidered with a congratulatory message.
- Txapela actually means ‘hat’ so while every beret is a txapela, not all txapela are berets. In particular, in the northern part of the Basque Country, they say bonnet instead. That said, often txapela means beret. And, the beret or boina is often called a Basque cap by neighboring regions and in other parts of Europe. The word txapela itself is not a native Basque word, but derives from the Latin capellum ‘cap.’
- Despite its ubiquitous association with the Basques, the tradition of Basques wearing a beret is not so old. There are scattered references in the 15th century, but really it became popular in the 1800s, very likely due to the influence of Tomas Zumalakarregi, the Carlist general in the First Carlist War who outfitted his troops with red berets and named them the txapelgorris – the red caps.
- The origins of the beret are lost to time, but it seems likely that it came to the Basque Country by way of France. Regardless of how it came to the Basque Country, it has been a feature of the local costume since the 16th century and became very popular in the 1800s, as mentioned. This popularity arose, in part, due to the industrialized manufacturing of berets, first in Oloroe-Donamaria, just outside of Iparralde in France, then in Gipuzkoa in 1859 and Bizkaia in 1892.
- Similar headwear is common to other parts of Europe, including Scotland, though the Basque beret does have a few unique traits, particularly that it has no peak, that the rim folds inward, and it has a small stem – a txertena – in the middle. The txertena is such an integral part of the Basque beret that cutting it off was seen as a great insult, sometimes leading to duels.
- The importance of the txapela to Basque culture is reflected in the fact that the words for competition and champion – txapelketa and txapeldun – derive from the word. The txapeldun – literally the one who has the txapela – is often given a beret embroidered with details of the contest as a trophy.
- How one wears a txapela can identify where they are from. In Araba, there is a slight point to the front. In Bizkaia, it’s always tilted to one side or the other. And, in Gipuzkoa, the beret is worn flat, so that it looks the same from all angles.
- Traditionally, black is the color of the worker, worn for every day tasks, while red is the color of the fiesta as epitomized in the festival of San Fermín. However, other colors are also seen, depending on the taste of the wearer and the occasion.
A full list of all of Buber’s Basque Facts of the Week can be found in the Archive.
Primary sources: La boina y los vascos by Olga Macías, Euskonews and Media; Historia de la txapela; un símbolo vasco, Txapelmedia; Los secretos de la txapela, un icono euskaldun con mucha historia by Aitor Ruiz, Deia