Basque Fact of the Week: Why is there a Hole in the Middle of Araba?

Back in March, we took a quick trip to the Basque Country to see family. On the way, we had stopped at Burgos, just to see a new place. We were talking about Burgos when a friend said he had passed through Burgos when he participated in Korrika, the massive race in support of the Basque language. At first, we were a little confused – why would Korrika pass through Burgos – until they pointed out the big hole in the middle of Araba…

  • Let’s start with some definitions. An enclave is a territory belonging to one jurisdiction that is surrounded by an other. An exclave is the opposite – it is a piece of territory that is separated from the main jurisdiction. So, an enclave of one place can be an exclave of another.
  • The “hole” in Araba is the Treviño enclave. It is actual part of the province of Burgos, but it is surrounded by the province of Araba. It consists of two municipalities, Condado de Treviño and La Puebla de Arganzón. Puebla de Arganzón was founded (received its fueros) in 1191 from Sancho VI of Navarre (“Sancho el Sabio”, “Sancho the Wise”) in 1191. It is thought that Condado de Treviño is even older. When Araba was conquered by Castilla, the region that now forms the Treviño enclave was given to Manrique family and passed down as part of a noble title.
  • As one might expect, this has led to both some complications and challenges. The people of the enclave must travel to Vitoria-Gasteiz, the capital of Araba, for many of their services. This creates a strange administration problem in which Araba provides the bulk of the services to the people of another province.
  • The people of the enclave have voted in the past to join Araba, but that vote was ignored. More recently, there have been votes to have a referendum on the issue, but that was also ignored. The current leaders of the enclave have deferred the discussion to higher level government officials.
  • Araba isn’t the only Basque province with an enclave. Bizkaia also has one, this one belonging to the province of Cantabria. Valle de Villaverde was purchased in the 15th century by one Pedro Fernández de Velasco, and at that time it ceased being a part of Bizkaia.
  • And, Bizkaia has an exclave. The city of Urduña is part of Bizkaia, but it sits on the border between Araba and Burgos – it is not an enclave as it is not surrounded by a single other territory, it is on the border. It has strong historical ties to Bizkaia with long standing economic agreements and commercial routes connecting to Bizkaia. Though Araba has tried to annex it in the past, the people of Urduña have reaffirmed their commitment to remain part of Bizkaia.
  • …AND, within Urduña there is yet another enclave. The Cerca de Villaño sits within the Urduña exclave but is part of Burgos.

A full list of all of Buber’s Basque Facts of the Week can be found in the Archive.

Primary sources: See the links in the main article.

Under Construction…

Unfortunately, Buber’s Basque Page was down for a few days due to a compromised server, which meant that some posts have been lost. My most recent backup dates to December, 2024, so I’ve lost about 1.5 years of posts. I’ll slowly work to replace those posts as I continue to add new content, but it will take me some time.

If you recently sent me an email or had a message that was awaiting a response from me, I likely don’t have it anymore, so feel free to write me again.

And, if you recently subscribed to the blog, you might have to subscribe again to continue to receive posts via email.

My apologies for this. Clearly, I should backup more often than I do (isn’t that what we all say???). I appreciate your patience as I slowly recover the posts that have been lost.

Language Speaks Louder Than Bones: The Story of The Basques Naming Themselves, ca. 500,000 BP

Joxe Mallea-Olaetxe, a long-time friend, is a historian who has worked tirelessly to document the history of Basques in the American West. One very visible example is his work on the arboglyphs Basque sheepherders left behind as they roamed the hills, valleys, and mountains of states such as Nevada, Idaho, and Oregon, but he has done much more. But, as with any attempt to document history, there are always holes that can’t be filled through evidence alone, and that is particularly acute for any and all things Basque. Thus, Joxe has turned to fiction to fill that void, rooted in his long years of study. Below is a trailer for his first novel.

Language Speaks Louder Than Bones: The Story of The Basques Naming Themselves, ca. 500,000 BP
A Trailer by Joxe Mallea-Olaetxe

Joxe with his daughter’s doberman Zoe as they go for a hike. Photo by Nikane Mallea.

Most of my life I have been a historian and a history-writer, until recently when I embarked in a new career as a fiction writer. I am young enough to undertake it, because writing fiction is less taxing than historical research. Besides, Saint Augustin says that fiction is another aspect of history, therefore I am not running away from it.

I am also a linguist, and though I do not have a proper university degree in linguistics, I have taught several languages at the university and college level.

My first novel is finished. It is not your run-of-the-mill novel that happens tomorrow or a century ago. Action is set ca. 500,000 BP.

What,? you might say; What do you know about life half a million years ago? Not much, but that’s the point. Is there anyone else who knows much about it? A lot has been written about our cave-dwelling ancestors, but the evidence comes from a few old bones and stone tools. The discovery of a new bone is enough to trigger someone to write a book demolishing all we thought we knew before.

I find it curious that no scientist ever attempted to use language to gaze into our deep past. Perhaps nobody thought that their language had any value, which might as well be true, but Euskara, the language of the Basques, does.

Appropriately, the title of the novel is Language Speaks Louder than Bones.

I am the narrator and thus an eye witness, which means I am there where the actions is. By the time I am done with the novel, I — and you — will probably know more than anyone about the cave dwellers. There are some — many — holes in my narrative, it happened so suddenly. I don’t know how but I found myself on a tree watching below a group of pre-Neanderthal hunters, or bears? At first I thought they were bears, until I realized that they were holding spears. Do bears hold spears?

I have still no idea where I was, but certainly somewhere in the Atlantic Europe. The huge discovery was that the dozen or so clans that I came into contact with, had some proto-Euskara words in their languages. The next finding was that these clans lived at considerable distance from each other, but they could communicate, because their languages shared some common basic words, of which some sounded like Basque.

A monumental harrimutil (stone cairn) erected by sheepherders in Alpine County, CA.

The Basque language, Euskara, has words that literally take us back to the time when “gize” (humans) had four hands, so before they embarked their bipedal journey.

The gist of the novel is that I was at the meeting when eight clans came together to choose a common name for themselves. In fact, they ended up selecting two names, one picked by the men and one preferred by women.

It did not happen overnight. It came after the realization that they, the cave dwellers, were not any different from bears, but had some differences, for example, making tools and building a fire, something they didn’t see other animals do, in fact, all animals avoided fire. The other monumental discovery was the language, so let no one call them primitive or brutes anymore.

I haven’t decided where or how I want to publish; I may end up going the Kindle way.

Basque Fact of the Week: The Bombing of Gernika

Today marks the 89th anniversary of the bombing of Gernika. Last month, in March, we made a quick trip to the Basque Country over spring break to visit my dad’s family and made of point of seeing Picasso’s Guernica. As we near the 90th anniversary of the bombing, the painting is once again in the news as the Basque government has requested that the painting be loaned to the Basque Country. This request has been denied, based on arguments that the painting is too fragile.

My daughter Rose contemplating Picasso’s Guernica. Photo taken by Lisa Van De Graaff.
  • Gernika sits at a crossroads, centrally located between the cities of Lekeitio, Nabarniz, Markina, Amorebieta, and Mungia and Bermeo. Every Monday, the city hosted a market and fair which would draw residents of nearby towns; more than 10,000 people typically attended the market. There were few military targets in Gernika: the bridge and the arms factory.
  • At 4:30pm on April 26, 1937 – a Monday – planes from the German Condor Legion and the Italian Air Force began bombing the city. George Steer, a journalist who arrived in Gernika the day after the bombing, took accounts from the survivors and sent the first account of the bombing to the international press. 
  • Some air raid shelters had been established as a response to the bombing of Durango only about a month before. As church bells pealed out a warning of an air raid, people fled to find shelter, leaving their livestock in the market square. Two planes flew over and dropped bombs and incendiary devices. As the aircraft flew overhead, machine-gun fire strafed the people running in the streets.
  • After that, nothing happened for about 15 minutes and the people began emerging from their shelters when another group of bombers flew overhead, dropping more bombs that then exploded. The streets filled with fire and smoke. Some of these bombs were one thousand pounds and penetrated through buildings and into basements and shelters. As the panicked populace again emptied to the streets to flee, more planes strafed them with more machine-gun fire.
  • This continued until about 7:30pm, by which time nearly the entire city was ablaze. The Church of San Juan had a hole in its roof where a bomb had penetrated, setting the altar ablaze. 
  • The immediate aftermath of the bombing was a series of denials and accusations from both Franco and the German government. While they acknowledged that Gernika had been a military target, poor visibility led to some stray bombs that hit the city itself and that then the Basque “Reds” deliberately set the city ablaze. However, the discovery of Wolfram von Richthofen‘s diary (von Richtofen was commander of the Condor Legion), which were made public in the 1970s, confirmed the bombing and the tactics used. At the Nuremberg trialsHerman Göring said that Gernika was “a sort of test bed for the Luftwaffe” and that it was an experiment that “could not be conducted anywhere else.”
  • The plans to bomb Gernika, while gestating for some time, were finalized in a meeting the day before, on April 25, in Burgos. It is hard to know precisely who was involved, but at least Richthofen and the Spanish fascist leaders Juan VigónEmilio Mola and Franco were involved in the planning. Richthofen and Italian general Vellani were at the Burgos meeting, though Mola was elsewhere.
  • The number of people who died in the attacks is hard to pinpoint as there are many figures out there, but they range from a minimum of 153 to more than 1500. Xabier Irujo’s analysis points to the higher number, or even more than 2000 dead. The bombing received international attention as it was one of the first aerial bombardments of a civilian population. However, it wasn’t the first: several Basque towns had been bombed earlier in the war, including Munitibar and Durango.

A full list of all of Buber’s Basque Facts of the Week can be found in the Archive.

Primary sources: Castaño García, Manu; Editorial Auñamendi. Gernika-Lumo. Auñamendi Encyclopedia, 2026. Available at: https://aunamendi.eusko-ikaskuntza.eus/en/gernika-lumo/ar-57197/; Bombing of Guernica, Wikipedia

Basque Fact of the Week: Real Sociedad, Copa del Rey Champions

While Athletic Bilbao receives more international attention, primarily due to their unique policy of signing only Basque players, they are not the only team in the Basque Country – there are several. Yesterday, April 18, 2026, the soccer team from Donostia, Real Sociedad de Fútbol, won the Copa del Rey, their first win since 2000 and only their fourth win in their history. Star player Mikel Oyarzabal scored one of their goals, with rising star Ander Barrenetxea scoring the other. Led by an American-born coach, this win caps a remarkable turnaround where they were almost relegated to second division only a year ago.

The players of Real Sociedad celebrating their Copa del Rey win against Atletico Madrid on August 18, 2026. Photo from Reuters.
  • Fútbol came relatively late to Donostia – the first recorded match was played in 1902, a time when other towns in Gipuzkoa already playing. The sport was brought over from England, by young men who had worked or studied there. By 1903, the first clubs had been established.
  • To formally compete in official championships, clubs had to be registered. One club in Donostia registered under the name Club Ciclista so that they could play in the 1909 Spanish Championship, the Copa del Rey, which they won. This team ultimately became Real Sociedad. In 1909, they formed their own team, the Society of Football, and in 1910 the Spanish king bestowed the title “Real”, or Royal. Hence, they became known as Real Sociedad de Fútbol, the Royal Society of Football.
  • In 1913, the city and team inaugurated their football field, Atotxa, which became their home for over 80 years. The first match in the new stadium as against Athletic Bilbao, a game that ended in a 3-3 tie. In 1993, the team moved to their current stadium, Anoeta
  • Real Sociedad was one of the founding teams of the Spanish La Liga in 1929. In 1931, they briefly changed their name to the Donostia Club de Futbol during the Second Spanish Republic, but after the Spanish Civil War they reverted back to Real Sociedad de Futbol. Their nicknames in Basque are Erreala (“Royal”) and the txuri-urdin (“white-blue”).
  • Since their founding, Real Sociedad has won the Copa del Rey four times, including that first year in 1909 and most recently just yesterday – April 18, 2026. The previous win was in 2020, when they beat Athletic Bilbao for the win after a year delay due to COVID. They have also won the Spanish Premier League twice, most recently during the 1981-82 season.
  • Up until 1989, Real Sociedad maintained a policy similar to Athletic Bilbao in that they only signed Basque players. However, in that year, they signed forward John Aldridge from Ireland. 
  • Real Sociedad is more than a men’s soccer team. They also consist of track and field, field hockey, and pelota. In 2004, the group formed a women’s soccer team, Real Sociedad Feminino. That team won the Copa de la Reina in 2019. 
  • Their current coach, Pellegrino Matarazzo, was born in the United States to Italian immigrant parents. Though obtaining a degree in applied math from Columbia, his passion was soccer. After a less than stellar career as a player, he became a coach and in December, 2025, he was named Real Sociedad’s coach. Real’s winning of the Copa del Rey is his crowning achievement. Just last year, the team was on the verge of being relegated to second division.

A full list of all of Buber’s Basque Facts of the Week can be found in the Archive.

Primary sources: Cuesta Olaizola, Eneko de la. Real Sociedad de San Sebastián. Auñamendi Encyclopedia, 2026. Available at: https://aunamendi.eusko-ikaskuntza.eus/en/real-sociedad-de-san-sebastian/ar-124806/Real Sociedad, Wikipedia

Basque Fact of the Week: Jon Bilbao, The Basque Bibliographer

Last year, the pioneering work Amerikanuak celebrated its 50th anniversary. Written by Willian Douglass and Jon Bilbao back in 1975, this book surveys the history of Basques in the Americas – not just the United States but all of North and South America. Bilbao had spent many years chronically all works written about the Basques which undoubtedly served as a foundation for Amerikanuak. Bilbao lived a complex life, bouncing back and forth between the United States and Europe as political tides ebbed and flowed. Studies of Basques in the Americas owe a great debt to Bilbao.

Jon Bilbao playing an alboka. Photo from the Jon Bilbao Basque Library.
  • Jon Manuel Bilbao Azkarreta was born on October 31, 1914 in Puerto Rico. His father Juan had left the Basque Country at the age of 12 looking for opportunity. There Juan met Matilde Azkarreta. In 1917, the family moved back to the Basque Country, where Jon grew up. He got a bachelor’s degree from the University of Valladolid and then studied Medieval History at the Central University of Madrid.
  • He had intentions of returning to Bilbo where there were plans to open a Basque university but the Spanish Civil War broke out and he joined the Eusko Gudarosteak (Basque Battalions). The day Bilbo fell, Jon escaped in the dead of night to France, making his way back to Puerto Rico. He eventually enrolled in Harvard, then Columbia, then the University of California, Berkeley, to continue his doctoral studies. However, he never finished. 
  • As a a deputy director of the “Basque Government in Exile” he was sent to Idaho to research the Basques there and to fund-raise for the government. During this time, he was very active in fight against fascism and, after World War II, was named a Knight of the Belgian Order of the Crown. In 1943, he became as citizen of the United States.
  • During these years, he began work on what would become Eusko Bibliographia, a reference documenting every item ever published on Basque topics. In the end, it took him 20 years to complete this monumental task. At a time before the internet where finding scholarly resources was challenging, this work was indispensable for Basque scholars.
  • He returned to the Basque Country for a few years, working with J.M. Barandiaran, before moving next to Cuba and then back to the Basque Country. In 1958, he was arrested by Franco’s government. He wasn’t imprisoned due to his American citizenship but was expelled from Spain. Moving to Biarritz, he was soon expelled by the French government, causing him to return to the United States.
  • He taught at Georgetown University and the Naval Academy before being recruited by William Douglass to join the new Basque Studies program at the University of Nevada, Reno. With Douglass, he toured Latin America and wrote Amerikanuak: Basques in the New World, the definitive history of Basques in the western hemisphere.
  • He retired from Reno in 1980 and returned to the Basque Country once again. He was excited by a number of projects related to the Basques, the diaspora, and the creation of a Basque library, but things didn’t quite materialize as he hoped. He died on May 23, 1994 after suffering multiple strokes.

A full list of all of Buber’s Basque Facts of the Week can be found in the Archive.

Primary sources: Jon Bilbao, Wikipedia; Estornés Zubizarreta, Idoia; Elia Itzultzaile automatikoa. Bilbao Azcarreta, Jon. Auñamendi Encyclopedia. Available at: https://aunamendi.eusko-ikaskuntza.eus/en/bilbao-azcarreta-jon/ar-14146/

Basque Fact of the Week: Tota Aznar de Pamplona

The medieval history of the Basque Country is both fascinating and so convoluted. There are so many marriages back and forth between different families as royals tried to consolidate and expand power that it becomes dizzying. A great example is Tota, or Toda, Aznar of Pamplona. Her skill as a diplomat and in establishing power through marrying her children places her as a central figure in the history of the Basque Country.

Toda de Pamplona, as painted by António de Holanda in 1530. Image from Wikidata.
  • Tota Aznar, or Toda as she was more commonly called, was born in the 9th century – possibly on January 2, 876. She was born into nobility. Her father was Don Aznar Sánchez, Lord of Latraun, and her mother was Doña Oneka. She was the granddaughter of King Fortuño Garcés “the Monk”; as such, she belonged to the Arista dynasty.
  • She married Sancho I of Pamplona, Sancho Garcés, who was of the Ximena dynasty. Thus their marriage united the two most powerful families of Pamplona. 
  • Toda was a very skilled diplomat. As one example, she arranged the marriage of her daughter Sancha first to Ordoño II of Asturias. When he died, she arranged the marriage of Sancha with Álvaro Harrameliz, and after he died, with Fernán González, the Count of Castile, bringing the County of Álava as her dowry. She arranged similar marriages for her other daughters, solidifying the position and power of her family.
  • Sancho I died in 925. His brother, Ximeno Garcés (who also was Toda’s sister Sancha’s husband), succeeded him, but also became the guardian of Sancho and Toda’s son García Sánchez I. Ximeno didn’t last long, dying in 931, at which point García became king, but since he was still a minor, Toda became regent and his guardian.
  • The royalty of Pamplona was intertwined with the nearby Muslim rules (Toda was aunt or, more likely cousin, to Caliph Abd-al-Rahman III). In 934, Toda signed a treaty with Abd-al-Rahman III, which helped to cement the rule of her son, but by 937 Toda had already broken her treaty, leading to conflict. In 939, she is noted as having defeated “an innumerable army of Saracens,” saving the king.
  • After García rose to the throne in his own right, Toda becomes less prominent in records. However, by 958 she is noted as ruling her own subkingdom in the areas of Deio and Lizarrara.
  • Her last great feat as a powerful ruler was promoting her grandson, Sancho I of León, known as Sancho the Fat. She enlisted the aid of Abd-ar-Rahman III to cure Sancho’s obesity, which his Jewish physician Hasdai ibn Shaprut said he would do if Toda visited Córdoba, the seat of Abd-ar-Rahman’s power. She did, along with her son and grandson, and this visit proved to be a huge diplomatic event. Sancho was cured and went on to reclaim the throne of León.

A full list of all of Buber’s Basque Facts of the Week can be found in the Archive.

Primary sources: Estornés Lasa, Bernardo. Toda Aznárez de Larraun. Auñamendi Encyclopedia. Available at: https://aunamendi.eusko-ikaskuntza.eus/en/toda-aznarez-de-larraun/ar-139997/Toda of Pamplona, Wikipedia

Basque Fact of the Week: The Time Spain Planned to Conquer China with an Army of Basques

It seems inconceivable today, but in the late 1500s, the rulers of what is now Spain thought they could conquer China and then the rest of Asia with an army of 10,000 to 20,000 soldiers. They thought they could persuade Japan to join them. What’s more, this army was going to be primarily Basque. Leaders often overreach, thinking they are invincible, their ambitious getting the better of themselves (and, unfortunately, all of those around them); but this plan seems even more foolhardy than most.

The stages of the Empresa de China plan. Image from Wikimedia.
  • In the late 1580s, a plan was devised by Spanish leaders to invade China. The goals were to Christianize the nation, plunder its wealth, and establish a base of operations from which Spain could conquer other parts of Asia. There were even plans for Spanish soldiers to mix with Chinese women and to establish encomiendas using local labor, much as they did in the Americas.
  • Versions of this plan had been floated before. Hernán Cortés made such a proposal in 1526. Martin de Rada, one of the first missionaries to visit China, suggested such a plan in 1575, though he did not advocate the use of force, but rather “persuasion and evangelization.” Francisco de Sande, governor of the Philippines from 1575 to 1580, thought a force as small as 4,000-6,000 could take China.
  • The one that actually took hold – the Empresa de China or Chinese Enterprise – was pitched by diplomat Alonzo Sánchez. A Jesuit missionary, Sánchez had been to the Philippines and saw an opportunity to expand Spanish and Christian influence. He was able to get a version of his plan to King Philip II who, with his Council of State, began developing the plan. Amongst others, Basque Juan de Idiáquez y Olazábal helped Sánchez get his plan in front of the king. The Bishop of Manila and another Basque, Domingo de Salazar, also advocated for the plan.
  • Spain reasoned that, because of the ease with which they had conquered the Americas and the Philippines, China would be similarly easy. From a Spanish perspective, China was a wild place which, while densely populated, didn’t have a military spirit. They thought that a small force of some 15,000 soldiers could take China, aided by popular resurrection once the Spanish came. 
  • Of the soldiers that were part of the planned contingent, some 12,000 were meant to be Basque. Sánchez made this specific recommendation. There was no reason given for this suggestion, though one can speculate that the great reputation of Basques as navigators – such as Juan Sebastián Elkano, Miguel de López de Legazpi (founder of Manila), Andrés de Urdaneta (López de Legazpi’s navigator who discovered the return route to America from the Philippines), and Martín de Goiti (explorer of the Philippines) – made them desirable for this mission. Other soldiers from Japan and Portugal were also part of the plan.
  • The plan was derailed by the defeat of the Spanish Armada when it tried to invade Britain in 1588 and subsequently abandoned.

A full list of all of Buber’s Basque Facts of the Week can be found in the Archive.

Primary sources:  Los 12.000 vizcaínos que debían conquistar China para Felipe II by Javier Muñoz, El Correo; Empresa de China, Wikipedia; El plan más meticuloso y ambicioso de Felipe II para el Imperio Español: conquistar China con ayuda de Japón by Alejandro Alcolea, Xataka

Basque Fact of the Week: Some Basque Beliefs about Death

Death and taxes, the only things that can’t be avoided. Death eventually claims us all and it is no wonder then that people develop special beliefs around death. People develop special rituals around those who have died and the handling of their body. In the Basque Country, there are also beliefs and rituals connected with the soul of the dead, both to help them in their journey and to prevent them from being trapped on Earth. Many ancient Basque beliefs and traditions were ultimately either transformed or replaced by Christianity. 

The remains of my great great grandmother as her body was being moved to the crypt. You can read about that story here.
  • As might be expected, a serious illness was seen as a presage of death. That said, such illnesses were often attributed to God, as a punishment for sins. Or, alternatively, as the result of the evil eye or malevolent spirits that constantly swarmed everywhere, spreading disease and agony. And, as I’ve written about before, various animals also foretold death.
  • When someone died, their eyes and mouth had to be closed quickly, otherwise they might draw others to their “side,” or to the realm of the dead.
  • It was believed that demons, evil spirits, or even the devil himself lurked around the death bed and could tempt people to say blasphemous things. In Christian times, this led some people to putting into their will language that protected them: “And if, through weakness, the severity of my illness, or the persuasion of the evil enemy, I should say or utter anything against the Holy Faith, I hereby renounce it and declare that it is not, nor will it ever be, my intention, but rather to always remain in the Holy Faith…”
  • While a sudden death was taken to be a sign of damnation, of God not giving the person time to prepare, a prolonged death was also viewed negatively. In some places, an oil lamp was lit and it was thought that the person would die when the oil ran out. Or if someone continued to suffer, it was because their soul was trapped and they couldn’t escape the room, so a window might be opened.
  • When someone was deathly ill, if a domestic animal died (a cow in Bermeo, a hen in Gorozika), it was taken as a good sign, as the animal took the place of the person.
  • When someone had died, it was the task of the women to prepare the corpse. In old times, the body was simply wrapped in a sheet or shroud, called a hil-mihise – people were not buried in a coffin. People would make their own shrouds, many years in advance of their own death, in preparation.
  • Another ancient tradition was tying the body’s hands and feet with rope, more recently with ribbons. Originally, this may have been done to restrict the dead from returning as an apparition.
  • As in many places, bodies were buried with items. Today these are often religious in nature – crucifixes or rosaries. However, in past times, weapons and coins might have been buried with the dead. In any case, these items were thought to be useful for the dead in the afterlife.
  • While the body was being prepared and was on display in the house, in some places mirrors were covered with a black cloth. It was thought that if one looked into a mirror with the body in the house, they might see witches or even the dead him or herself.
  • Finally, death was associated with impurity. So, when someone died, their mattress would be burned. Or a bundle of straw was burned while a prayer was recited. In some places, the stables also had to be purified. And yet in others brandy and herbs were burned.

A full list of all of Buber’s Basque Facts of the Week can be found in the Archive.

Primary sources: Madariaga Orbea, Juan. Muerte. Auñamendi Encyclopedia. Available at: https://aunamendi.eusko-ikaskuntza.eus/en/muerte/ar-82465/

Basque Fact of the Week: The Urberuaga Spa of Bizkaia

This one may be of interest to only me…

Driving along the highways in the heart of Bizkaia, there is a sign that appears on the side of the road that simply says Urberuaga, but there is nothing really there. It turns out that there used to be a quite renowned spa in the area, as the naturally thermal and gaseous waters were known to promote good health. It is an interesting story of the rise and demise of a once-prominent institution.

An aerial view of the Urberuaga spa. Image from the blog of Idoia Goiti.
  • The name Urberuaga, and by extension Uberuaga, comes from the words ur (water) + bero (hot) + aga (place of), thus meaning place of hot water or hot springs.
  • Urberuaga de Ubilla is a neighborhood of Markina-Xemein, situated between the mountains Itoñamendi and Ekarrein, straddling the banks of the Artibai River. The neighborhood, which officially got its name in 1980, has never had more than a few hundred people.
  • The spa of Urberuaga de Ubilla was built between the years of 1870 and 1872. The thermal waters, distinct from other springs, had long been known to have medicinal properties, primarily for digestive and urinary issues. In fact, the waters were first mentioned in the 16th century. People had learned about the medicinal properties of the water and came to the area to drink it. Before the spa was built, a bathhouse was constructed in 1825.
  • The spa closed in 1872 because of war, but reopened and expanded: in 1879, Los Arcos, the first grand building, was erected; in 1882, the even larger Casa Francesa was built; and, in 1888, the Casino was constructed. The spa boasted, amongst other things, a room where sprayed water could be breathed, an elegant hall with nickel-plated fixtures, and mosaic floors that offered a touch of hygiene and elegance. The spa could accommodate 350 guests and had two large dining halls that could hold 90 and 130 people, respectively.
  • The waters had a temperature of about 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The spa consisted of three springs – Santa Águeda, San Juan Bautista, and San Justo – with a flow of about 2.5 gallons per second. The water itself was full of bicarbonate and nitrogen gas which provided some of its beneficial properties. In fact, the quantity of nitrogen gas was quite high which is part of what made these waters unique.
  • In 1983, the spa was destroyed by a series of floods. After the spa was closed, they continued to bottle the mineral waters to sell but that was abandoned in 1993. There were some short-lived plans to construct a hotel on the site of the spa, but those were also ultimately abandoned. Today, the site is overgrown with vegetation and barely recognizable. A colony of bats has made the derelict buildings its home.
  • There is a second Urberuaga spa, this one in Algzola, Elgoibar, Gipuzkoa. Built around 1846 on the grounds of the old farmhouse Etxe Zuria, it closed in 1976, though the site continues to bottle the water.

A full list of all of Buber’s Basque Facts of the Week can be found in the Archive.

Primary sources: UBILLA-URBERUAGA. Auñamendi Encyclopedia. Available at: https://aunamendi.eusko-ikaskuntza.eus/en/ubilla-urberuaga/ar-133553/;URBERUAGA DE UBILLA, Balneario de. Auñamendi Encyclopedia. Available at: https://aunamendi.eusko-ikaskuntza.eus/en/urberuaga-de-ubilla-balneario-de/ar-136282/Urberuaga, el Balneario abandonado (Markina) by Gullivervan; El agua del balneario de Urberuaga podría abastecer a los 7.800 vecinos del Artibai by Mirari Artime, El Correo; El balneario abandonado de Urberuaga, Piensa en un lugar; URBERUAGA, Balneario de. Enciclopedia Auñamendi. Available at: https://aunamendi.eusko-ikaskuntza.eus/es/urberuaga-balneario-de/ar-136281/; Urberuaga de Ubilla, Estudio de sus aguas nitrogenadas by Doctor Don José Hernández Silva, Madrid, Imprenta de Ricardo Rojas, 1895